Trip report

2009-09-10T10:38:00.003+10:00

Here is a trip report with a little bit more detail of the expedition

After 2 days of air travel we finally arrived in Islamabad. It was after midnight when we checked into our hotel and we had looked forward to sleeping in a bed. We were greeted by the Broad Peak leader to inform us that due to not being able to get a flight we would be leaving by bus early in the morning, or more accurately in just under 4 hours time.Most of the expedition packed on to 2 mini buses and we started the first of a two day trip on the Karakoram Highway or the KKH. The streets of Islamabad quickly changed to dusty roads and farm land. We were greeted by one lane bridges, army check points, tanks and many staring faces.
When the sun set a security escort was provided. That changed at each check point from a police officer sitting on our bus to a police car with flashing light driving in front of our vehicle. The escort was to provide safety from the Taliban. Our destination for the night was Chilas, we arrived at 1 am, dinner was offered but sleeping in a bed we decided was a better idea.

In the morning we woke to a beautiful view of the river and valley, but also realised that we were in a compound with armed guard and barbed wire fences.We also discovered that we had likely cracked the sump on our bus and we would be leaving once it was repaired... inshalla. Once again on our way we had spectacular views of Nanga Parbat and saw where the Karakoram, Himalaya and Hindus Kush meet. The road soon changed to a small, dirt and one lane on the side of a cliff. Looking down at the river 300-400 metres below, we were all very nervous.

We arrived in Skardu after over 36 hours on the bus and were greeted with a magnificent BBQ, a soft bed and what we thought would be hot showers. These would have to wait til tomorrow after the plumber could be found to fix our shower.We spent the next few days in Skardu picking up last minute items and eating as much as we could.The expedition finally began to feel like it was starting, we all sorted gear in to barrels that were then packed onto jeeps for transport to Askole.

The road to Askole was another long jeep ride on very thin road on the side of a cliff. We thought we were lucky having the only jeep that was enclosed but soon discovered this only made the jeep a greenhouse. It was either dust or heat, we all voted for dust but our friendly Liaison Officer overruled us and we suffered in the heat.One mentionable place was a water fall that was running over the road, that turn out to be more of a mud slide. We drove through it and soon discover the mud blocking the view of our driver, who then had to drive with his head out the window. The following day a jeep (with no one in it) slipped in to the river in the exact same place. Arriving in Askole was a relief, it was the first night in a tent and finally we looked like we would be starting the trek.

The team was divided into those travelling to K2 base camp first and those going to Broad peak first. Sacha and I soon started to get to know our group of Broad Peak climbers. We went to bed early but were soon reminded of lunch the previous day, our first case of gastroenteritis on the trip. The trek to Jola we were accompanied by our 250 porters, goats and chickens. The track was along the side of cliff, river and on moraine. The wind blew fiercely all day and once again we were greeted with dust. There was more than one rickety bridge crossing but luckily a new bridge had been constructed to the camp so the crossing by a wire was not necessarily. At camp we were greeted by pit toilets and a fairly comfortable camp site.

The walk to Paiyu we had incredible views of the terminal end of the glacier and of many peaks. The long line of porters showed us the way to camp. That night we arrived in Paiyu after 8-9 hours, after waiting for our tents to arrive and setting them up it started to snow lightly, I was thankful that the next day was a rest day. The night prior to walking on the glacier the porters all had a big party with singing, dancing and music, this was to celebrate the last day before heading onto the glacier and the real hardships for them. We left Paiyu for Urdukas and the mountains of the Karakoram started to appear up the glacier. This included unique, steep and famous peaks such as Trango Tower and Great Trango. A suggested 4-6 hour day turned out to be more like 8 hours over uneven ground which often involved scrambling on rocks. For the camp we hoped off the glacier for our last day off ice for the next few weeks.The next camp was Goro 2 and route finding was becoming more difficult, as piles of rocks were used to mark the way. The obvious problem being that the glacier was just large collections of piles of rocks. After getting lost many times we finally arrived at our first camp on the glacier, and our first night on rock and ice. The porters as usual slept huddled together surrounded by a small rock wall with a plastic sheet as a roof. Their heat was generated by a kerosene burner in the middle, it definitely was not the safest setup around. From Goro 2 we went to Concordia we were greeted with spectacular views of Gasherbrum IV, II, Masherbrum, Broad Peak and K2. Concordia is the meeting place of some very large glaciers and gives a 360 degree view of some magnificent mountains. It was the highlight of the trip so far.
The nights were also getting colder as we ascended and the ground was colder and harder with more ice than rock. The next day we arrived at our home for the next few weeks, Broad Peak base camp. Half our team continued a further 2 hours up the glacier to K2 Base Camp. We spent the first hour or so digging out a nice level platform for our tent and then made sure we had a view of K2 to wake up to each morning. The biggest disappointment of the first few days was that our toilet or kitchen tent didn't arrived, it did eventually show up.

We settled into base camp life eating, sleeping, playing cards and resting. Plans were made to head up the Broad Peak and the task of fixing the line was started. One member of our group was evacuated due to a non responsive corneal ulcer and was flown out by helicopter.I was again stuck down by gastroenteritis, getting out of a tent when things are getting desperate wasn't the most fun thing in the world.

On Broad Peak the climb had fixed rope but wasn't particularly steep, and was very different I'm told to previous years due to large amount of snow. From base camp to the start of the route involved weaving your way through the glacier and most of the time getting lost. The route then climbed up a snow slope following a rocky ridge to half camp, it then went up a further snow slope to camp 1.Snow falls were a constant problem, with the day after a heavy snow fall could produce over 50 avalanches on the mountain, including a large avalanche that destroyed half the route from the bottom of the fixed line to Camp 1. I went up to half camp once and camp 1 twice, staying 2 nights at camp 1. Including one very cold night sleeping by myself at camp 1 in my down suit as my sleeping bag was wet. Due to a medical illness I was unable to continue the climb and was evacuated by helicopter. The helicopter was an amazing experience and gave fantastic views of the mountains.Pakistan was a very interesting experience and is a place that really is unique. One day I may return ... inshalla.

Back in Skardu

2009-07-11T15:35:00.001+10:00

Due to medical reason I was forced to leave the expedition and we are currently back in Skardu. We are both okay and hopefully will be back in Australia in the next few days.

Bad weather

2009-07-03T21:12:00.001+10:00

Still at base camp. The weather remains poor. It looks like we will be at base camp for the next few days.

Camp 1

2009-06-30T21:04:00.001+10:00

We spent the night at camp 1. It looks like bad weather for the next few days, so we will be spending the next few nights at base camp.

Broad Peak BC

2009-06-25T13:16:00.003+10:00

At Broad Peak base camp where we have been for a couple of days. Heading up to camp 1 tomorrow. Both Sacha and I are doing well.

Concordia

2009-06-22T09:12:00.003+10:00

21/06/09. We have arrived at Concordia. From here we have great views of K2, Broad Peak and G IV. We are spending the night on the glacia at an altitude of 4500m.

Urdukas

2009-06-19T21:41:00.003+10:00

We have now arrived at Urdukas, at an altitude of about 4000 metres, after a 9 hour walk today from Paiju. It has been 3 days of walking, with one day for rest. We have had our first views of Broad Peak, as well as Trango Tower and Great Trango Tower. Both Sacha and I are doing well.

Packing In Skardu

2009-06-13T19:58:00.002+10:00

After a good sleep and some meals we are feeling better. I am currently packing for the trek ahead and getting some last minute snacks. We are planning to leave in 2 days where we will get a jeep to Askole then begin the trek. This will be the last place with internet access. Tomorrow we will kill some time in Skardu and may visit the K2 museum.

Skardu

2009-06-13T00:52:00.003+10:00

We have arrived in Skardu after a very long trip. After getting off the plane we left on an 18hour bus ride after a long 4 hour sleep. We then had another 4 hour sleep followed by another 12 hour bus ride and now are in Skardu.
We are looking forward to a good sleep.

Almost time...

2009-06-06T08:53:00.008+10:00

The expedition is starting very soon and packing is all but done. With only a few last minute things to do. The team and dispatch pages are now up on the Field Touring website and will be a good source of information during the expedition. Their address is http://www.fieldtouring.com/ . This will be the last post prior to leaving for Islamabad.

Australian Geographic Society

2009-05-04T13:53:00.003+10:00

I'm happy to announce that the Australian Geographic Society has agreed to become a sponsor of my climb. The Society helps to support scientific research, protect our environment and natural heritage, encouraging the spirit of discovery and adventure. The chance of success of the expedition is increased by their support.

Countdown ...

2009-02-26T17:31:00.006+11:00

With just over 3 months til the start of the expedition, currently I am training and starting to get all my travel plans ready. I am trying to organise the easiest way to send write this blog while in base camp, it looks like it will be via a PDA and a satellite phone.

There is still the option for trekkers to come in to Broad Peak and K2 base camp for anyone interested. It would be a great chance to see some 8000m peaks and also have a fantastic experience by trekking in.

The climb of Broad Peak will be via the standard route and will be without supplementary oxygen. It will be used to help acclimatise for the climb on K2. We will attempt K2 from the Cesen route, which will be using supplementary oxygen. This will be my first time to Pakistan so will be an interesting experience.

Well til the expedition starts there will likely be very few posts, til then I will continue to train, sort gear and prepare.

Broad Peak and K2 2009